THE BARONG DANCE: BALI’S ETERNAL STRUGGLE
THE BARONG DANCE: BALI’S ETERNAL STRUGGLE
The Dance of Life, Death, and Cosmic Balance
The Etymology and the "Divine Beast"
The word Barong is deeply rooted in the ancient Austronesian and Hindu-Javanese languages.
Bahruang: Most scholars believe the name is derived from Bahruang, which translates to "Bear." Historically, the Barong was a forest protector spirit, and over time, its appearance evolved into a mythological creature that combines features of a lion, a dog, and a dragon.
The Protective Totem: In the Balinese context, the Barong is known as Banaspati Raja (Lord of the Forest). He is the leader of the forces of good and the king of spirits.
The Counterpart: The dance is incomplete without Rangda, the demon queen and the personification of Adharma. The term "Barong" specifically refers to the mask and the spirit that inhabits it.
Places and the Theaters of Batubulan
While the Barong is a sacred ritual performed in villages across the island, the most accessible and professional daily performances are found in Batubulan Village, Gianyar Regency.
The Cultural Corridor: Batubulan is located just south of Ubud and is famous as the village of stone carvers. It hosts several major open-air theaters such as Sari Wisata Budaya, Sahadewa, and Pura Puseh Batubulan.
The Setting: The dances are typically performed in a Candi Bentar (split gateway) setting, with a lush temple backdrop and a live Gamelan orchestra providing the rhythmic heartbeat of the story.
History and the Roots of Animism
The Barong dance is a fascinating hybrid of ancient animist beliefs and the later influence of Hindu mythology.
Pre-Hindu Origins: Long before Hinduism reached Bali, the locals believed in protective totems that guarded villages from disease and dark spirits. The Barong was the primary protector.
The Calon Arang Legend: The narrative of the dance is often taken from the Calon Arang story (11th century), involving the widow-witch Rangda and the King Erlangga.
The Living Mask: Historically, Barong masks are considered highly sacred objects. They are carved from the wood of trees grown in holy ground and are "consecrated" through a ritual called Pasupati, which invites a spirit to reside within the mask.
The Kris Ritual: A central part of the history is the "Kris Dance," where male dancers in a trance attempt to stab themselves with sharp daggers. Legend says the Barong’s magic makes their skin impenetrable, protecting them from injury.
The Barong Dance is not merely a piece of theater; it is a living fossil of Balinese spiritual history. Its origins represent a thousand-year synthesis where ancient indigenous beliefs seamlessly merged with imported Hindu-Javanese philosophies.
1. The Animist Genesis: The Lord of the Forest
The Protective Totem: The Barong began as an Ancestral Guardian Spirit. In the ancient Bali Aga tradition, the community believed in a "protective animal" that acted as a shield against Lenge (dark energy) and diseases.
Banaspati Raja: Historically, the Barong is known as Banaspati Raja, the "King of the Forest." Ancient Balinese viewed the jungle as a source of both life and danger; the Barong was the entity that mediated between the wild world and the human village, ensuring that the malevolent spirits of the forest stayed outside the village gates.
2. The 11th Century Synthesis: The Calon Arang Legend
With the rise of the Udayana Dynasty in the 11th century, the Barong narrative was layered with historical drama from the court of East Java.
The Legend of King Erlangga: The dance adopted the story of the great King Erlangga and his struggle against the widow-witch, Rangda (also known as Calon Arang).
The Personification of Duality: This historical merger turned the Barong into a symbol of Dharma (Righteousness) and Rangda into the symbol of Adharma (Chaos). Unlike Western concepts of Good vs. Evil, the history of this dance teaches that neither side can ever truly "win." The play always ends in a draw, symbolizing that balance (Rwa Bhineda) is the natural state of the universe.
3. The Living Mask: The Pasupati Ritual
The historical significance of the Barong is tied to the physical mask, which is treated as a sentient being rather than a prop.
Sacred Wood: Historically, the wood for a sacred Barong mask must be taken from a Pule tree growing in a "hot" (spiritually charged) location, such as a cemetery or a holy temple ground.
The Pasupati Ceremony: Once carved, the mask undergoes the Pasupati ritual. This is a complex consecration where a priest "activates" the mask, inviting the divine spirit to descend and reside within the wood.
The Sacred Hair: The hair of the Barong is often made from human hair or horsehair, and it is believed to hold the "Mana" or spiritual power of the guardian. When not in use, the mask is kept in a special shrine and given daily offerings.
4. The Kris Ritual: The Trance of Protection
The most gripping historical element of the performance is the Ngerebeg or the Kris Dance, a display of supernatural intervention.
The Trance (Kerauhan): Historically, this was a spontaneous occurrence where the dancers would be possessed by the Barong’s followers (Patih).
The Divine Shield: In this heightened state of consciousness, the dancers turn their Kris (traditional daggers) upon their own chests. The history of this ritual lies in the belief that the Barong’s presence creates a "Spiritual Armor."
Testing the Magic: If the dancer is truly in a trance and under the protection of the Barong, the sharp steel will not pierce the skin. This serves as a public demonstration of the Barong's power to protect the community from physical and spiritual harm.
Historical Note
In the historical context of Balinese village life, the Barong was often "walked" through the streets during times of plague or crop failure. The dance you see on stage today is an artistic adaptation of these profound, ancient exorcism rites that still take place in the quiet temples of Bali at midnight during the New Moon.
Access and the Morning Performance
Unlike many other Balinese dances that take place at night, the Barong Dance is the "Morning Star" of Balinese cultural tourism.
The Schedule: Most performances in Batubulan begin at 9:30 AM daily. This makes it the perfect first stop for tours heading toward Ubud or Kintamani.
Proximity: It is a 20-minute drive from Sanur, 45 minutes from Seminyak/Kuta, and only 15–20 minutes from central Ubud.
Arrival: Visitors are greeted with a pamphlet explaining the different "Acts" of the play, usually available in multiple languages to help guests follow the complex plot.
Facilities and the Theater Experience
The theaters in Batubulan are well-equipped to handle international visitors while maintaining a traditional atmosphere.
Open-Air Amphitheaters: Large, roofed seating areas allow for a clear view of the stage while protecting guests from the sun.
Live Gamelan Orchestra: Every show features a full troupe of musicians playing bronze percussion instruments, which is a spectacle in itself.
Photo Opportunities: After the performance, the dancers—including the Barong itself—usually stay on stage to allow guests to take photos.
Amenities: Facilities include ample parking for tour buses, clean public restrooms, and small boutiques selling authentic Barong masks and local crafts.
English Summaries: Detailed English-language synopsis papers are provided at the ticket booth to guide you through the 5 acts of the performance.
Witness the Triumph of Dharma
At Balisutha Tour Service, the Barong Dance is our recommended morning "Welcome" to the soul of Bali. It is an explosion of color, sound, and spirit that truly makes you "Feel Like Home" in our rich cultural tapestry.
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